Our Daily Bread • 08.27.11
It is a well known fact that a smell will send you back to an event in your childhood when you first smelled that smell. Whether it is good or bad it makes a lasting impression, and the wonderful aroma of baking bread whisks me back to the last years of rationing in England, and as the years go by I love it every time it wafts through the house.
It’s hard to believe in these days of vast factory bakeries that a small bakery would supply a few streets with bread, but that’s how it was, and we lived 3 houses away from ours. In it’s small way it became the centre of our universe as the Coronation party was held there in 1953, birthday celebrations were held there, tragedies were discussed there and politics was debated there, as we queued for our warm bread, only slightly cooled from what seemed to a small child, huge ovens.
Some of us would have loved to make our own bread, but fats were rationed. Bread had stopped being rationed by July 1948, and so we bought our daily bread!
The National Loaf
The ‘National Loaf’ was rolled out by a government intent on keeping it’s dwindling population healthy. It was classified as wheatmeal and contained all of the wheat, making for a cardboard constituency with gritty bits. Hard to swallow when Britain was used to eating white refined bread, however the propaganda machine went into operation and came up with this rhyme:
“Pat-a-loaf, pat-a-loaf
Baker’s Man
Bake me some Wheatmeal
As fast as you can:
It builds up my health
And its taste is good,
I find that I like
Eating just what I should.”
1943
Just to make sure that you realised that eating all of your bread was important, fines were imposed for wasting bread, waste including feeding the birds throughout the harsh winters of the war.
“Miss XYZ of Herts was fined a total of £10 with £2 costs at Barnet today for permitting bread to be wasted. Her servant was fined 5 shillings for wasting bread. It was stated that the servant was twice seen throwing bread to the birds in the garden and when Miss XYZ was interviewed she admitted that bread was put out every day. “I cannot see the birds starve”, she said.”
From the ‘Bristol Evening Post’ (January 1943)
1956
The National Loaf was abolished. Laws were introduced whereby all flour other than wholemeal had to be fortified with minimum amounts of calcium, iron, Vitamin B1 (thiamin) and nicotinic acid.
1961: The Decline of Good Bread
The Chorleywood Bread Process, came into general use. This substantially reduced the long fermentation period by introducing high energy mixing for just a few minutes, dramatically reducing the time taken to produce a loaf. The process also permitted a much greater proportion of home grown wheat to be used in the grist.
The Birth of the Conglomerate
As the process become widespread, and coupled with an increase in the scale of bread production as bakers consolidated, merged with larger bakeries or were taken over, coupled with the continuing growth of the supermarket, the ever increasing demand for sliced and wrapped bread maintained its pace.
A Changing Society
This reflected the changing nature of British society. Women were going out to work in substantial numbers for the first time, there was a substantial uplift in post war affluence, and it was a decade of technological advancement – sliced and wrapped bread fitted neatly into this cultural shift by providing above all convenience.
The Complete Anihilation of Our Bread
More than 30 different chemicals are approved for addition to bread, including:
- ethylated mono and triglycerides,
- potassium bromate,
- potassium iodide,
- calcium proprionate,
- benzoyl peroxide,
- tricalcium phosphate,
- calcium sulfate,
- ammonium chloride
- magnesium carbonate.
I Still Bought Bread
But, like everyone else I bought supermarket bread for years. Consistancy got worse and the chemicals got more and I retired from work. This gave me time to experiment with making our own bread, and as soon as I did, bought bread wasn’t worth eating.
Three Cheers for the Roman Soldier
The ingredients are very basic and the method is quick. I read that Roman soldiers made their own bread using Spelt flour, and as they didn’t want to spend hours waiting for their bread to prove, the yeast was allowed only one time period for rising. This sounded good to me, and so I bought the best Spelt wholemeal flour that I could find, and it has always performed well.
Spelt also has less gluten making it useful for people who find themselves to be gluten intolerant.
I take:
Spelt Wholemeal Flour
Spelt White Flour
Tablespoon oil (usually Hemp but any will do)
Pinch Raw Sea Salt
Dried Yeast
Filtered Water
The usual Bread making method (with only one proving) produces the most tasty, aromatic, satisfying loaf. It can be rounded or put into a tin for easier slicing, and while it’s baking the whole house is permeated with nostalgia, an incense which wafts me back to my wartime childhood days.













































